Shinjuku at Night III

This is the main entrance to Kabukicho, Japan's most famous red-light district. When I first arrived in Japan, I couldn't understand how such a outwardly conservative country could have so many seedy districts. After having lived here for more than two years, I now realise this phenomenon is more complex first impressions might imply.

Firstly, neon, unlike many parts of the United States, does not immediately indicate the neighborhood is sleazy. Somewhere between old downtown Las Vegas (think Golden Nugget) and Times Square, neon came to signify red-light districts. Having seen a few different East Asians cities -- Tokyo, Taipei, Seoul, and Hongkong -- there is neon everywhere in business districts. Even innocent family restaurants are often peppers with neon signs. It is no more than an advertisment.

Secondly, a red-light district in the West immediately implies prostitution. This is not necessarily the case in Tokyo. While prostitution exists, it is a tiny part of these neighborhoods. Streetwalkers are rare. Most of the activity centers around eating with a small group of friends -- a pair of mixed pairs is the best from my experiences, and then continuing to karaoke (カラオケ) or a bar.